Introducing 27 87: Discovery Set First Impressions

27 87 is a Barcelona-based niche brand that I discovered a couple of months ago. With their discovery set in my hands, it’s a perfect opportunity to share my first thoughts with you.

As someone who has been in the perfume game for almost 20 years, I was surprised to find out that they have been on the scene for nearly 10 years. It shows that even with all this experience, some brands flew under my radar.

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That’s why this is a great way to introduce you to a brand that may not have the same exposure as some other houses that spend a lot of money on marketing and give something back to the fragrance community.

Editorial Disclaimer: The Discovery Set was provided free of charge by the brand, which had no financial, creative, or editorial involvement in this article. The viewpoints expressed are solely those of the author. All perfume imagery in this article was kindly provided by 27 87 Perfumes at my request, sourced directly from the brand’s official channels to accurately represent each fragrance.

ABOUT THE BRAND

Founded in 2016 and based in Barcelona, Romy Kowalewski had a clear intention of creating cutting-edge artistic perfumes that focus on the contemporary reinterpretation of perfumery that enhances an individual’s immediate reality.

Rather than directing olfactory experience through artificial story and commercialized processes, we partner with some of the world’s most innovative noses to create progressive perfumes for the here and now.

27 87 carries seven scents within four lines, each reflective of a distinct state of mind: NOW, WILD, GO and CALM.

While focusing on quality rather than quantity, we prefer long-lasting over short-term. At 27 87, we release new perfumes when it‘s time, not when timing requires it. We consciously run our business by our standards of values and beliefs, not by market expectations and statistics.

Defined by the curiosity to test the limits between creativity and commercial reality, we are a fully independent, direct-to-consumer brand.

Romy Kowalewski, a pioneering spirit of her genera tion, leverages “discover the new within the now” as her guiding philosophy. Born in Berlin Romy’s own signature scent during school hinted at her future ambitions.

At 27, she ventured to Paris, facing challenges head-on to transform her vision into 27 87, a distinctive perfume label.

Drawing inspiration from the Here and NOW in Barcelona – the city she calls home – Romy’s 27 87 challenges the norm, offering progressive, inquisitive perfumes that are canvas and resonate with individuality.

In reimagining perfumery for the 21st century, she dares to be unconventional, cementing her reputation as a true millennial maverick.

All “About the Brand” details in this section were sourced directly from 27 87 Perfumes’ official press kit.

HOW I RANKED THE DISCOVERY SET

Judging fragrances from samples is not easy, and since this is my first time doing it, I’ve decided to skip giving any scores, as it wouldn’t be fair to judge a fragrance based on just a couple of wearings.

The performance of each sample from the discovery set has also been adjusted so that I can give it an overall feel for what to expect, rather than giving a final opinion.

One great thing that the house has done is that if you decide to discover their fragrance via this set, during your next checkout for any purchase over €100.00, they will reimburse you for its cost, which is €50.00.

The original idea was to collaborate with 27 87 via a couple of reviews from the full bottles. Still, I’m okay with doing this kind of article first and maybe doing some reviews if this partnership continues.

So, here’s what you need to know about this ranked list. First, I ranked each fragrance based on how I felt about wearing it three to four times.

Second, the ranking factor was mainly the artistic way, originality, pricing, and how it made me feel while wearing them.

Thirdly, and most importantly, these are not reviews, and the rankings might have changed if I had full bottles.

So, take this list as an excellent opportunity to discover something new in the saturated perfume market and take it as it is: a first impression.

27 87 – thank you for this opportunity and for sending me this set, giving me a chance to introduce your brand to my global audience.

10. RULE OF 72

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Guided by the sharpness of its namesake mathematical formula, rule of 72 combines the muted elegance of saffron and geranium with vigorous natural Thai oud and creamy guaiac wood. Leather notes, along with vetiver and pachouli, whisper confidence rather than scream it — for a scent as resolute as it is ambitious.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Ombre Leather-like soft suede leather note complemented by a pleasant oud, creating a familiar blend. There’s also a balsamic sweetness contributed by guaiac wood. Some may find it reminiscent of a more popular Amouage Interlude, particularly due to the intriguing oregano note, which isn’t included in the official note breakdown. This fragrance has charm for those who appreciate a suede leather accord.

While I find Interlude less appealing, I still admire the suede aspect. The dry down reveals a mix of peppery vetiver and a notable presence of cedarwood. If sampling is not an option, consider the smaller 27ml size for a more reasonable introduction to this scent. The price is on the higher side for what it offers. However, projection and longevity are respectable based on my experience with the sample, making it a suitable choice for the year’s colder months.

9. HAMACA

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Inhale, exhale, and let go: “hamaca” fuses cool and salty marine accords with grounding Venezuelan tonka bean, sun — warmed coconut, Madagascan vanilla, and earthy sandalwood to create a scent of pure, unadulterated presence.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: I enjoy the summery vibe of this fragrance! It has a lovely combination of vanilla and coconut, with a hint of salty water and nutty tonka in the background. While I would wear it during the summer, I feel overwhelmed by the number of similar scents, like Vanilla Vibes and Soleil Blanc, that keep coming out each year. The ingredients don’t smell as natural as I would hope, and I find it a bit pricey for what it offers. But hey, not every fragrance can be a favorite, right?

8. ELIXIR DE BOMBE

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “For exceptional moments and rare encounters: “elixir de bombe” unfolds in robust notes of red pepper, ginger, and tangy tangerine. Paired with rock rose, raspberry, and sweet caramel, it’s a scent both confident and slyly sensual.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: It’s not my style, but I can see why some might enjoy it! It’s fruity and sweet, with raspberry and spicy ginger caramel shining through. As it settles, I can also pick up on some amber and leather notes. It would be perfect for younger women who love sweeter, spicier fragrances. I typically lean towards different scents, but it’s worth a try if you’re in the mood for something sweet and tangy!

7. PER SE

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Per sē is not a scent. It’s a sensory experience. From its avant-garde composition to its minimalist design, it echoes a new sensory universe that expands beyond the bottle.

Per sē is our scent identity and the olfactive translation of our core belief: There is No Scent Like the Present. It combines the now. The achromatic, and the individual in a sensory experience.

“In creating Per sē, we aimed to capture the very essence of the present moment. This fragrance is unparalleled; it ebbs and flows with the dynamism of change, yet its core remains strikingly constant. Just as time never stops, neither does ‘Per sē’. It serves as evidence of the enduring within the ever-changing.

Crafting a symphony of achromatic elegance, Per sē is composed of a floral bouquet, orris butter, and violet leaves. Juxtaposed with clean aldehydes, bamboo, and a pinch of spicy pep- per, a subtle underscore of ambrette seeds, angelica roots, and gentle musk complete the incompletable experience of the sensory now.

It’s a scent that invites, enchants, and evokes the present in all its multifaceted grandeur. Per sē is the industry’s first olfactive logo that encapsulates the essence of the now.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: In most cases, I love fragrances that open with a peppery, pencil-shaving scent and mix with fresh aldehydes that remind me of clean laundry, giving it a nice, airy feel. I can see this being a favorite among women, especially during the warmer months, although it’s not my style in the end.

One thing to note is that it becomes woodier the longer it stays on the skin. I’ve heard it has some similarities to Byredo’s Blanche. Overall, it feels a bit simpler than the notes suggest and might come across as a little tame for a niche fragrance in terms of its uniqueness and performance.

6. WANDERVOGEL

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Inspired by the lust for novelty and exploration, wandervogel combines exotic shiso, marine notes, and subtle sand accords, lending it an airy, near transcendent appeal. Combined with a soft note of rare Moroccan mint, it’s a modern interpretation of exploration and lands unseen.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: This fragrance has a lovely minty aroma that instantly reminds me of sipping a refreshing cocktail at a beach bar by the sea. It’s a calming and uplifting scent, perfect for taking along on your summer vacation! As it dries down, it transforms into something that feels like stepping into a vibrant greenhouse filled with lovely plants. It gives off a happy, cooling vibe! I think mint lovers will adore this, especially fans of “You or Someone Like You” by Etat Libre d’Orange. I can’t help but wish they’d create an Extrait version of this scent with a richer, deeper base—it would be fantastic!

5. FLANEUR

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Contemporary, visionary, and just a tad melancholic, flâneur is infused with the green, faintly bitter scent of absinthe. Contrasted by the warmth of cashmere wood, linden and almond blossom, along with fresh bergamot, elegant cedarwood, and a supportive base of star anis, dry amber and vetiver, it’s a dry, but warm scent that is both nostalgic and dizzyingly present.

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: I have to say, this fragrance is quite the experience! It’s heavy on linden blossom, which isn’t my favorite scent, even in real life. But to be fair, the composition is much more intriguing than, for example, Per Se. After the initial floral burst, the citrus notes start peek through, evolving into something more than just a basic floral perfume.

There’s a touch of bitter almond in the heart that, thankfully, isn’t the overly sweet kind that usually puts me off. The base notes of Cashmeran and Vetiver remind me a bit of Genetic Bliss, but overall, I appreciate the development of this fragrance. Even though I’m not a fan of Linden, I can see myself giving this one another chance in the future!

4. SONAR

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Complete immersion, ecstatic presence — sónar delves deep into the scent of community and sound, combining metallic wood and amber with bright Mediterranean bergamot. Subtle beer and burnt rubber accords add a unique bend to a note of tuberose — usually quite sweet — making this a scent to hit all the senses.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: This fragrance opens with a bold metallic saffron note that I love! It’s artistic in a way that I wish every niche fragrance at this price could be. After a couple of minutes, the rubbery saffron takes an interesting turn when tuberose joins in. It’s the most daring fragrance in the entire discovery set, and I highly recommend starting with this one if you’re feeling a bit tired of the mass-appeal scents that have flooded the niche market lately. It’s super wearable and addictive! It reminds me of Nishane Safran Colognise, which is a true masterpiece. And believe it or not, there’s a little hint of that spilled beer aroma, which I find quite pleasant—unlike some who aren’t fans of it. Enjoy exploring!

3. #HASHTAG

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “hashtag is inspired by everyday digitalization. Cool, yet deep and smoky, it combines Somalian incense, Moroccan cedarwood, and iris from the Landes region. Blended with the metallic vibes of fresh aldehydes, it’s a mirror and companion to modern life: grounded with a hint of tech appeal.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: I’m excited about this fragrance! It has a fun, peppery aldehydic opening paired with a unique ozonic, violet leaf note, which sets it apart from others, such as Fahrenheit and Narciso Rodriguez for Him. Over the past decade, I’ve been on the hunt for something with an iris note that captures the essence of the legendary Prada Infusion d’Homme, and this one hits the mark perfectly! It’s clean and elegant, with just the right touch of churchy incense that elevates it to an actual niche creation.

I’m not too worried about all the modern marketing buzz and hashtags. When I look at who created this perfume, it all makes sense. Daniela, the perfumer behind it, is incredibly talented and has crafted several Prada scents, so it’s no surprise that this one reminds me of her creations at Prada. Her signature style shines through in this composition, and I love it after just a few wears! I can’t wait to do a full bottle review in the future!

2. MOSAIQUE

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “A cold smoky vibe infused with the mystical sweetness of honey, plum, and ylang-ylang juxtaposed with clean roasted cocoa, leather, and oak moss. A unique mosaic of ancient traditions and contemporary tribal rhythms.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: I’m glad I can share my thoughts on this fragrance! It opens with a delightful, sweet, fruity suede leather vibe that reminds me of Tom Ford’s Ombre Leather—so beautiful right from the start! It’s such a versatile scent that I think anyone can wear it, as it doesn’t lean too much towards either men or women.

The honeyed tobacco runs throughout the fragrance, and I can easily see myself rocking this for a night out, especially during those chilly months. As it develops, this fantastic combination of mossy chocolate and patchouli is heavenly, especially for those who love sweeter scents.

I do wish the fruity aspect was a bit more vivid! Everyone talks about the plum note, but I barely pick it up, and I adore plum in perfumes. I think this one is the best from the bunch, but since I lean more toward lighter fragrances like Genetic Bliss, I’d rate this one second on my list now.

1. GENETIC BLISS

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “genetic bliss” speaks to our base potential, the essence of who and what we are — the unshakeable. A molecular perfume designed to adapt to your body’s unique natural scent, it’s infused with woody notes like akigalawood, belambre, and creamy sandal-
wood for a fragrance as singular as your genetic code.

As a molecular perfume, this fragrance does not evolve over time, but blends consistently and linearly into its surroundings. Great as a stand-alone or in combination with other 27 87 perfumes.”

FIRST IMPRESSIONS: The reason I wanted to collaborate with the brand was the popularity of Genetic Bliss. The name is super cool, and honestly, if it were called Forest Bliss, I think that would have fit just as perfectly. After wearing it a few times, I discovered that I love it! It’s a fantastic alternative to Escentric Molecules 01 and 04, and this one lets those lovely woody notes shine through.

There’s a strong presence of javanol and Iso E super in the mix, which I enjoy. The scent has an abstract quality with a slight hint of something synthetic, but it doesn’t bother me. It’s a wonderfully versatile fragrance that’s perfect for the warmer months.

You might also catch hints of something citrusy and fruity in there, though I can’t quite put my finger on what it is. Overall, it’s creamy and musky, and I think the people around you will enjoy it! Just a little heads up: molecular fragrances can sometimes cause nasal anosmia, so it might take a few wears for your nose to adjust completely. But trust me, it’s magnetic, and I can see why it’s so popular!

FINAL WORDS

It’s been a joyful ride sampling all the fragrances from the discovery set. Sonar, #Hashtag, Mosaique, and Genetic Bliss are winners for me, and if the opportunity arises, I would love to review them in their full bottle versions sometime in the future.

Once again, thank you for giving me and my readers something new to discover. This was my first time writing a first impressions article, and I’m glad I chose to collaborate with a brand that has something good to offer.

While the four previously mentioned perfumes stand out to me, and let’s be honest, they can’t all be winners, no matter which brand is being discussed, I think that starting with the discovery set is your best option.

Thanks for reading.

What do you think about this article covering 27 87’s Discovery Set? Let’s start a conversation, and let me know in the comments section below.

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