Santal 33 by Le Labo is an unisex woody aromatic fragrance, created by Frank Voelkl and was launched in 2011.
I’ve long been curious about Le Labo’s most famous fragrance, which is today one of the most common niche scents around.
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In my experience, it does live up to its iconic status, and I completely understand why it inspired so many other fragrance houses to release something similar to this.
However, the thing is, fragrances of this calibre shouldn’t be bought without careful consideration. This is why I hope my opinion will help you decide whether to purchase Santal 33 or not.
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LE LABO SANTAL 33 ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Imagine sitting in solitude on the rugged, wide plains of the American West, firelight on your face, indigo-blue night skies above. There is nothing around save for the soft, desert wind. You. Are. Free.
From this defining vision was born SANTAL 33: a perfume that touches the vast and wild universality of this dream… that intoxicates… It combines a mix of cardamom and notes of iris and violet, which crackle in the formula. Added to this smoking wood alloy (Australian sandalwood, cedarwood) are some spicy, leathery, musky notes, giving this perfume its signature and addictive comforting scent.
Here is, in a few words, what SANTAL 33 is… An open fire… The soft drift of smoke… Where sensuality rises after the light has gone.”
PERFUME INFO
- PERFUMER: Frank Voelkl
- OIL CONCENTRATION: Eau de Parfum
- FRAGRANCE TYPE: Woody Aromatic
- RELEASE DATE: 2011
- TARGET AUDIENCE: Unisex
- MASCULINE/FEMININE: 70% – 30%
- DOMINANT NOTES: Sandalwood, Leather, and Papyrus
- AGE GROUP: 20+
- SEASONS: Spring, Summer and Fall
- OCCASIONS: Any Occasion
- PERFORMANCE: 10 – 12 hours with moderate projection
- COMPLIMENTS: High
- LIKEABILITY: High
- UNIQUENESS: 2/5
- PRESENTATION: 2/5
- VALUE FOR MONEY: 4/10
- PRICE: $$$ ($345.00)
- ACCORDS: Woody, Leather, Warm Spicy
- REVIEWED BATCH CODE: 23187- July 2023
- REFORMULATED: Yes
- HOLY GRAIL RATING: B
- SAMPLE/BUY/PASS: Sample
- TESTING PERIOD: 3 months
- PRODUCTION: Yes
- POSSIBILITY OF DISCONTINUATION: Low
PERFUME PRESENTATION
True to the brand’s style, the bottle and packaging are minimalist and apothecary-chic.
It comes in a simple rectangular glass bottle with a metal silver cap, and a clean white label bearing the typewritten fragrance name with additional information and a batch code at the bottom of the bottle.
If you buy in-store, the staff will hand-write your name(as seen on my bottle) or the gifting date on that label, making it feel bespoke.
The fragrance ships in a plain brown cardboard box with the same white label containing the same information as seen on the bottle.
Overall, I don’t care at all what the brand or other perfume influencers are trying to say and praise this presentation, it is original and interesting, but let’s not fool ourselves, this is not something high-end that’s worth this kind of money.
NOTE BREAKDOWN
In this section of my Scent Grail review, I’ll dive into the note breakdown that plays a crucial role in shaping the identity of a fragrance.
Understanding how the top, heart, and base notes interact can provide valuable insight into the scent’s overall character.
Whether you’re considering adding a fragrance to your collection or are simply curious about how the notes unfold, this breakdown will help you appreciate the craftsmanship and both the positive and negative aspects of a particular fragrance.
PERFUME NOTES
- TOP NOTES: Cardamom, Violet, Iris
- HEART NOTES: Sandalwood, Papyrus, Virginia Cedar
- BASE NOTES: Leather, Amber
TOP NOTES
I think that this perfume suffers from the same thing as Creed’s Aventus and Maison Francis Kurdjian’s Baccarat Rouge 540. Their global popularity.
Let’s get one thing straight – some people also detect something green or slightly dill-like in this phase (social media even jokes about “pickle juice”). Yeah, it doesn’t smell like this at all after the first five seconds of application.
What does it smell like upon the first spray? It’s a warm, spicy blast. I love cardamom, and even if it’s not the most natural-smelling one(the whole composition has an artificial smell), I immensely enjoy it.
Along with cardamom, a fresh, violet/iris floral touch with Australian sandalwood reminds me of crushed oakmoss and green wood shavings – not at all powdery, but airy and crisp.
HEART NOTES
After the gorgeous opening, the main note of the composition takes over, and proves that the fragrance naming in this case was up to the point.
The green spice eases, allowing the woodiness of sandalwood and cedar to flourish. At this point, I detect a gentle wave of sandalwood and cedar that is smooth and somewhat creamy.
Interestingly, the heart often brings out an earthy, papyrus nuance – a damp-wood vibe I’d almost call “forest musk.”
BASE NOTES
After a couple of hours, the initial sharpness has softened, leaving behind a foundation primarily of sandalwood and cedar, with a subtly sweet and tobacco-like quality.
Leather and musk begin to surface gently – I can sense a warm, creamy leatheriness beneath the woody notes. I think that the amber in this case is probably ambrox since it doesn’t smell at all like a traditional amber we find in other perfumes.
The result for me is a rich musky-wood perfume with just the barest hint of floral undercurrent.
PERFORMANCE & APPEAL
As an Eau de Parfum, it has a pretty good longevity and moderate sillage for a niche scent. On my skin, I get about 10–12 hours with above average projection during the first two hours of application, and then it goes a little closer to the skin.
Although this perfume is marketed as unisex, I have found it suits men better. Regardless of this, I have also smelled this DNA on women, and it can be worn by them.
If you’re someone who loves receiving compliments daily, you have found the perfect fragrance. Almost every time I have worn it, someone has commented about how good I smell and what fragrance I’m wearing.
OCCASIONS & VALUE
I find Santal shines in moderate weather and evening settings, and it’s versatile enough to be worn anytime, anywhere, thanks to its woody scent profile, which is generally very wearable throughout the year.
Now, the uniqueness. Where to start without sounding like a hater. The main issue for me is that it smells like a poorer version of magnificent Ormonde Jayne’s Ormonde Man.
This is not my rambling, and I have compared both of them side by side. Even if I consider the candle version of Santal, Ormonde Man was released two years before that product as well.
As for value, oh boy. When you enter the Creed and Amouage price territory, you’d better offer something on that level, and in 2025, this will not cut it.
Regardless of that, I would rather pay for Le Labo than for most releases from Nishane, Xerjoff, and Tiziana Terenzi, so take this as you wish.
PROS AND CONS
Each composition brings charm, complexities, and shortcomings to the diverse perfume landscape.
Exploring the pros and cons provides a comprehensive view, aiding fragrance enthusiasts in their quest for the perfect olfactory experience.
Understanding these nuances allows you to make a more well-informed choice, ensuring a tailored match for individual tastes.
Pros
- Draws attention and gathers compliments
- Excellent longevity and above-average projection
- Can be worn throughout the year on any occasion
Cons
- Terrible price point
- Poor presentation
- Similar to Ormonde Man, which is more affordable and is a better fragrance overall
COLLECTION & SIMILAR PERFUMES
Within Le Labo’s collection, Santal 33 stands as its signature woody scent. It belongs to Le Labo’s Classic collection of numbered scents (along with other favourites like Another 13, Thé Noir 29, Vanille 44, etc.). At the time of writing this article, there is no flanker of Santal 33.
COLLECTION
SIMILAR PERFUMES AND ALTERNATIVES
EDITOR’S CHOICE
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Welcome to the FAQ corner on Scent Grail, where I’ve curated answers to the most common questions about this perfume.
Whether you’re a fragrance enthusiast seeking to explore the world of niche perfumes or simply looking for additional information to complement your style, this FAQ section will provide valuable insights.
What type of people wear Santal 33?
It is mainly worn by those who are style-conscious and urban innovators, including artists, designers, trendsetters, and fragrance lovers who are drawn to exclusive luxury fragrances. It is also widely accepted by both genders, enjoying significant popularity among celebrities and industry insiders in major urban areas.
Why is Santal 33 so popular?
The captivating combination of smoky sandalwood, cedar, cardamom, leather, and violet creates a unique fragrance that is both unforgettable and suitable for everyday wear, while also delivering remarkable longevity. Its status as a cultural phenomenon was further amplified by early celebrity endorsements, the spread of social media, and increased availability following the Estée Lauder purchase.
What does Santal 33 smell similar to?
Numerous individuals consider it similar in style to other sandalwood-centred fragrances such as Maison Louis Marie – No.04 Bois de Balincourt or Commodity Book, both exhibiting creamy and smoky woody qualities. Those on a budget frequently draw parallels with the dupe Zara Olfactive / Nº01 Energetically New York.
Is Santal 33 masculine or feminine?
It was created and promoted as a fragrance suitable for all genders, aiming to go beyond conventional gender distinctions in scent. Some individuals perceive a subtly warm, masculine quality, yet both men and women equally wear it, and it is not categorised as belonging to either gender.
What Le Labo scent is most popular?
There is no doubt that Santal 33 continues to be Le Labo’s best-selling and most distinguished fragrance, often appearing in sales data and consumer trend lists. It is regularly recognised as the top item on bestseller lists alongside other renowned Le Labo fragrances.
FINAL WORDS
That said, if someone asked me, “Is Santal 33 worth the hype? I would say: for me, yes and no – but with caveats.
It’s a top-tier, meticulously crafted scent living up to its cult status, and in my experience, it performs excellently.
I consider it a modern classic of the woody niche genre. Unfortunately, the price is way too high, the presentation is borderline poor, and Ormonde Jayne’s Ormonde Man could have inspired it.
For all of those reasons, in case you have money to burn, buy it. Otherwise, I would strongly recommend you get a sample before purchasing.
What do you think about this article covering Le Labo Santal 33? Let’s start a conversation, and let me know in the comments section below.
If you are unsure whether to buy a fragrance, looking at Scent Grail’s S.P.A. Signature Factor Guide is always a good decision.
It is easy to use and the most relevant perfume-buying guide on the web. This way, you can determine whether a particular fragrance is worth checking out and potentially find your signature perfume.
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Until next time, stay humble and keep smelling great!
Best, Marin!
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