Gucci Memoire d’une Odeur Review (2019): The Smell Of Good Old Days

Mémoire d’une Odeur by Gucci is an unisex herbal musky fragrance, created by Alberto Morillas and was launched in 2019.

Man, oh man, to see one of the greatest designer fragrance brands fall so hard, and then come back with such a hard slap is rare.

Mémoire d’une Odeur stands out because it doesn’t try to be sexy in the usual way. Instead, it focuses on comfort, nostalgia, and a timeless feeling.

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In this review, I’ll break down this fascinating fragrance, explain why it’s the most unique scent I’ve experienced in the past ten years, and discuss why it may be the most misunderstood masterpiece of the last decade.

GUCCI MEMOIRE D’UNE ODEUR ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “Born from former Creative Director Alessandro Michele’s obsession with the link between scent and memory, Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur is designed to be a ‘hybrid scent that resembles memory as much as possible.” It is a universal perfume, unassigned to gender or time, meant to serve as an explorer, bridging the past and present. To capture this abstract concept, Master Perfumer Alberto Morillas established a new, modern olfactory family: “Mineral Aromatic.” At its heart is the unexpected and underestimated Roman Chamomile—a flower associated with childhood and dreams—blended with airy musks, Coral Jasmine, and noble woods to create a transparent, authentic, and deeply personal elixir.”

PERFUME PRESENTATION

The bottle is made of heavy, clear, light-green glass. The color is unique—a 1970s avocado mixed with sage green, as if it’s been on a sunny shelf for decades. The glass has grooves, like a Doric column from ancient Rome. It feels good to hold, with ridges that add grip and weight.

The atomiser is excellent. It sprays a fine, wide mist that creates a cloud around you, which is essential because the fragrance is light. The cap is another great detail. It’s gold-toned with a textured semi-guilloché finish, and it reminds me of the heavy-volume knob on an old hi-fi stereo.

The box is inspired by the medieval frescoes of Giotto in the Scrovegni Chapel in Padua, Italy. It features a celestial motif of gold stars against a deep green background. This visual reinforces the “universal” theme; the sky belongs to everyone, and memories, like stars, are countless.

It doesn’t look like a modern, tech-driven object. Just perfect.

NOTE BREAKDOWN

In this section of my Scent Grail review, I’ll dive into the note breakdown that plays a crucial role in shaping the identity of a fragrance.

Understanding how the top, heart, and base notes interact can provide valuable insight into the scent’s overall character.

Whether you’re considering adding a fragrance to your collection or are simply curious about how the notes unfold, this breakdown will help you appreciate the craftsmanship and both the positive and negative aspects of a particular fragrance.

TOP NOTES

The opening is very herbal and botanical. Roman Chamomile stands out for its dry, hay-like scent.

Honestly, in the first 30 seconds, it can smell a bit medicinal to someone not used to it, almost like a herbal ointment or a fresh canister of expensive loose-leaf tea.

There’s a “dusty” quality that feels very nostalgic—it reminds me of late summer fields when the grass is yellow and brittle. The Bitter Almond adds a brief waxy touch, softening the green notes a bit. It’s not a “fresh” opening like an aquatic scent; it’s fresh in an earthy way.

HEART NOTES

After about 15 to 20 minutes, the medicinal edge evaporates completely, and the fragrance enters its most beautiful phase. The Musk accord takes over.

This is difficult to describe, but on my skin, it creates a physical sensation of “coolness.” It smells like a smooth river stone pulled from cold water and drying in the sun.

The Jasmine weaves in and out, providing a soft, honeyed luminescence that is never feminine or floral in a traditional way. At this stage, the scent feels spa-like, promoting a zen-like sense of focus.

BASE NOTES

The dry down is when Mémoire becomes a close, personal skin scent. Sandalwood and Cedarwood come forward to give a sturdy, creamy, but dry base.

Vanilla is barely noticeable as a note; instead, it serves as a fixative, adding a gentle, comforting warmth.

After three hours, the scent smells like my own skin, but warmer, softer, and cleaner. It reminds me of old paperbacks or a favourite cashmere sweater that has taken on its owner’s scent over time.

It’s deeply comforting. Even though I prefer a different style of perfumery, I just cannot ignore how bold and successful (creatively-wise) this composition is.

PERFROMANCE & APPEAL

In terms of longevity, the performance isn’t as bad as some people say. I get about 6 to 8 hours, with moderate projection for the first 2 hours before it settles closer to the skin.

The herbal and musky notes stick well to fabric. If I spray it on my shirt collar or scarf, I can still smell the comforting dry down for over 8 hours.

This fragrance is for the “introverted” perfume lover. It’s for someone who wears scent for themselves as a form of self-care, not to impress others. It’s ageless, fitting for a 20-year-old art student or a 70-year-old gardener.

As for compliments, I don’t get “stopped in the street” reactions with this. But when I hug friends or lean in to talk, I often hear, “You smell so clean,” or “You smell calming.”

It’s a compliment-getter for intimacy, not vanity.

OCCASSIONS & VALUE

This is an ideal scent for spring and summer because of its airy, herbal feel. Still, I enjoy wearing it in the fall, since the dried-hay note matches the season of falling leaves.

You can easily wear it to the office, when travelling to warm places, or even before bed.

For uniqueness, I give this fragrance a perfect score. There’s almost nothing else like it on the designer market. It stands out among all the sweet and ambroxan-heavy scents.

And, lastly, we can talk about value for money. This is tricky. You can often find it at discounters now for a very reasonable price (often under $60 for 100ml if available).

At full retail, you can forget about this, since Gucci discontinued it, which is a shame. Still, I can understand why people did not appreciate it enough, which is the same thing that happened with Gucci Guilty Absolute Pour Homme.

PROS AND CONS

Each composition brings charm, complexities, and shortcomings to the diverse perfume landscape.

Exploring the pros and cons provides a comprehensive view, aiding fragrance enthusiasts in their quest for the perfect olfactory experience.

Understanding these nuances helps you make a more informed choice, ensuring a tailored match for individual tastes.

COLLECTION & SIMILAR PERFUMES

Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur currently stands alone as a unique statement from Gucci. There are no “Intense” or “Aqua” versions, which helps keep its identity special. If you like this thoughtful style, you might also enjoy these:

SIMILAR PERFUMES AND ALTERNATIVES

Comme des Garcons – Odeur 53 Eau de Toilette – 200ml

Yves Rocher Essences Botaniques Ondes Positives Oil Perfume Women Long Lasting Fragrance 50 ml./1.7 fl.oz.

L’OCCITANE Barbotine Eau De Parfum 1.60 fl oz

EDITOR’S CHOICE

Aqua Vitae Cologne Forte by Maison Francis Kurkdjian for Unisex – 2.4 oz EDP Spray

FINAL WORDS

It almost sounds like a cliché to end an article with that familiar phrase about why the best ones always get discontinued.

Unfortunately, this is true for this release. While I understand that something like this probably cannot be appreciated by the general public, in the end, we, the fragrance enthusiasts, lose with each discontinuation.

In writing this review, I realised that my love for this perfume stems from its quiet honesty. It doesn’t try to mask my natural scent with sugar or heavy spices; it works with my chemistry to create an aura of calm.

It is not a perfume for the red carpet; it is a perfume for the quiet, real moments that make up a life. If you get a chance to sample it or buy it, do yourself a favour and get one of the most unique releases from the 2010s.

What do you think about this article covering Gucci Mémoire d’une Odeur? Let’s start a conversation, and let me know in the comments section below.

If you are unsure whether to buy a fragrance, looking at Scent Grail’s S.P.A. Signature Factor Guide is always a good decision.

It is easy to use and the most relevant perfume-buying guide on the web. This way, you can determine whether a particular fragrance is worth checking out and potentially find your signature perfume.

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Until next time, stay humble and keep smelling great!

Best, Marin!
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