Costume National 21 Review (2024): Affordable Alternative to Chanel Coromandel

21 by Costume National is a spicy oriental fragrance created by Juliette Karagueuzoglou and Laurent Bruyere and was released in 2007.

As the name suggests, 21 celebrates the brand’s fashion and fragrance journey on their 21st anniversary.

This meticulously crafted scent is designed for those who appreciate the subtleties of life. It blends creamy and woody elements that evoke a sense of calm and warmth.

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As with Comme des Garçons, Costume National is one of those rare underrated designer brands that punch way above their price class and offer niche-quality fragrances at today’s designer prices.

Released in the same year as Chanel’s popular fragrance, this composition is the one you should be looking for first in case you want to see all the fuss and hype around Coromandel.

This review is a love letter to an underrated house, highlighting how we often overlook fantastic, affordable compositions while searching for the next big thing.

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COSTUME NATIONAL 21 DETAILS AND INSPIRATION

Costume National Scents, established in 2001, emerged from the fashion core of the brand.

Founded by Ennio Capasa in 1986, the brand artfully merges Japanese minimalism with Italian tailoring craftsmanship.

This timeless label has significantly influenced artistic perfumery for over twenty years, a legacy we can all appreciate.

Launched as a cornerstone of the brand’s fragrance collection, Costume National 21 represents a pivotal moment in the house’s olfactory journey.

The collaboration between talented perfumers Laurent Bruyere and Juliette Karagueuzoglou resulted in a creation that perfectly embodies the essence of modern Italian luxury while maintaining an approachable, comforting character.

This release is still in production and available as a 100ml Eau de Parfum for $136.00.

PERFUME ESSENTIAL INFORMATION

A NOTE FROM THE BRAND: “21 is the harmony of the purest elements that come together to create a single strong and synergistic character. The unexpected encounter of white purity and deep mystery gives rise to the most enigmatic of contrasts.

A sensual fragrance in which the whiteness of milk vigorously envelops spicy and woody notes. Opposites that attract and clash, giving rise to new lifeblood. Richness and essentiality come together in a unicum.

The bottle is an iconic design object: it is the reproduction in glass of Ennio Capasa’s sculpture that was inspired by the human silhouette. The bottle is dressed in snow-white, embodying absolute pureness.”

PERFUME PRESENTATION

The presentation of this release reflects the brand’s minimalist ethos. The bottle is a masterclass in minimalist design that manages to convey luxury without pretentiousness.

True to the brand’s aesthetic, the design is stylish and understated, perfectly representing the fragrance inside.

The cap is made out of cheap plastic and looks precisely like the atomizer, which is relatively poor in its performance.

The outer packaging is where it loses some point for me.

In my experience handling many luxury fragrance boxes, this one needs to be more attractive instead of plain and relatively cheap, yet I gave it one more point due to following its overall theme.

One cool thing about this packaging is its inner layer with printed reflective brand names, a great way to battle fake products.

Overall, the bottle has a unique look but comes with a relatively weak performing atomizer, and the box is dull and plain. So, it’s the middle of the road for me regarding the presentation.

NOTE BREAKDOWN

In this section of my Scent Grail review, I’ll dive into the note breakdown that plays a crucial role in shaping the identity of a fragrance.

Understanding how the top, heart, and base notes interact can provide valuable insight into the overall character of the scent.

Whether you’re considering adding a fragrance to your collection or simply curious about how the notes unfold, this breakdown will help you appreciate the craftsmanship and positive and negative sides of a particular fragrance.

TOP NOTES

Where’s the milk? That was the original title of this article, but I didn’t wake up today to be sarcastic. Jokes aside, regardless of this obvious downfall, the fragrance is beautiful.

The opening moments of this release remind me of the good old days from the earlier time in this hobby when I was experiencing everything for the first time.

The initial spray releases an intriguing blend where I immediately detect the citrus notes intertwined with precious saffron, which I can’t get enough of, no matter which perfume.

There’s an immediate sense of calm and comfort—like a cozy blanket in fragrance form. What fascinates me most about this opening is how it manages to be both familiar and altogether novel simultaneously.

And that’s why it’s such a shame that the implementation of lactonic elements here is practically non-existent except for a glance of it in the heart notes, but that’s coming for a different kind of accord.

HEART NOTES

As the fragrance settles, the heart notes emerge, revealing a spicier and more complex layer. The caraway and black pepper add a gentle heat that contrasts beautifully with the initial citrus and saffron burst, giving the scent an intriguing edge.

Caraway does not produce a body odor smell here, and it is masterfully combined with black pepper and that slightly milky and animalic royal jelly.

The labdanum provides a resinous and leathery quality that I find particularly compelling in bridging the gap between the spicy elements and the woody base.

Still, tonka bean, which keeps getting stronger as the fragrance develops, should have been removed from this scent since it doesn’t work with these scents, especially if you are looking for something more indie and in a niche.

BASE NOTES

While in 2007, these types of base notes could have been considered a masterclass in modern perfumery, today, we have many similar scents that do the same thing and are more successful.

I get a bit of scratchy old-school patchouli combined with tonka bean and amber, giving it that Coromandel vibe.

Remember, this is not a clone; both came out in the same year, and I wouldn’t be surprised if 21 came first.

Chocolate patchouli aroma is here if that is what you are searching for, but do not expect it too much.

The tonka bean is too strong, and this patchouli type is the same one used in Guerlain’s Heritage. The overdose of synthetic molecules such as cashmeran and musk are detectable, so be advised.

Overall, you can’t get a better patchouli-based scent for this amount of money, but in contrast, if you add just 20 to 30 more dollars, you can do better.

PERFORMANCE & APPEAL

The fragrance typically lasts 8-10 hours on my skin, making it suitable for a full day of wear, especially during the colder months when warm and cozy scents are appreciated.

The projection starts moderately strong, creating what I consider to be an ideal scent bubble that doesn’t overwhelm but maintains presence.

Over time, it settles closer to the skin, but I find it remarkable how the scent maintains its complexity even in its final hours.

As for its target audience, if you know this brand and Comme des Garçons, you can expect quality with a little bit of weirdness for not that much money.

Anyone over 25 is probably going to be comfortable wearing this one.

Last but not least, compliments. While it may not be a “crowd-pleaser” in the traditional sense, it resonates with those who get close enough to experience its subtle complexity, often leading to comments about its spicy nature, woody allure, and inviting, enveloping quality.

OCCASIONS & VALUE

21’s character is versatile but shines during cooler seasons and evening events.

Its sophisticated, warm, and spicy blend is ideal for fall and winter when you want a scent that feels like a cozy, comforting aura.

It’s well-suited for formal events, date nights, and intimate gatherings, where its soft sillage and refined allure can captivate without overwhelming.

Besides its base notes, uniqueness is its weakest point, but you can easily ignore that when considering that it is a high-quality fragrance with a niche appeal that justifies its price.

PROS AND CONS

Each composition brings charm, complexities, and shortcomings to the diverse perfume landscape.

Exploring the pros and cons provides a comprehensive view, aiding fragrance enthusiasts in their quest for the perfect olfactory experience.

Understanding these nuances allows you to make a more well-informed choice, ensuring a tailored match for individual tastes.

COLLECTION & SIMILAR PERFUMES

Costume National doesn’t separate fragrances into different collections, typical for a designer house, so this release has no variations.

COLLECTION

CoSTUME NATIONAL Homme Eau de Parfum, 3.4 Fl Oz

CoSTUME NATIONAL J Eau de Parfum, 1.7 Fl Oz, 1.7 fl. oz.

COSTUME NATIONAL SECRET WOODS by Costume National, EAU DE PARFUM SPRAY 3.4 OZ

SIMILAR PERFUMES AND ALTERNATIVES

Yves Saint Laurent Nu Edp Spray for Women, 2.7 Ounce

By Kilian – Black Phantom – 1.7 fl. Oz – no clutch

Jovoy Incident Diplomatique Eau de Parfum Spray for Men and Women (Unisex), 3.4 fl.oz. | Woody, Aromatic Fragrance with Notes of Mandarin, Vetiver and Patchouli

EDITOR’S CHOICE

CHANEL Coromandel Les Exclusifs Eau De Parfum Vial Spray 0.05 Oz / 1.5ml Sample!

FINAL WORDS

After spending significant time with 21, considering its affordability, I’ve considered it one of the most well-executed fragrances in contemporary perfumery.

Is this something new that will blow your mind? Probably not. That’s why it didn’t end up in my Holy Grail section.

But it is worth checking out if your collection doesn’t have a similar spicy patchouli fragrance.

What do you think about this article covering Costume National 21? Let’s start a conversation, and let me know in the comment section below.

If you are unsure whether to buy a fragrance, it is always a good decision to look at Scent Grail’s S.P.A. Signature Factor Guide.

It is easy to use and the most relevant perfume-buying guide on the web. This way, you can determine whether a particular fragrance is worth checking out and potentially find your signature perfume.

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Until next time, stay humble, and keep smelling great!

Best, Marin!
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– Marin Kristić